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CYC’s Guide To Tailored Trousers

If there is one garment men tend to neglect when they pick out their outfit, it’s trousers.

How many of you are guilty of buying cheap dress pants from mass retailers? After-all, it’s just pants (you’ll be covering most of it with a belt anyway)…right?

[Newsflash] Your dress pants should fit perfectly around your waist, without the need for a belt to hold them up.

Trousers are crucial to bringing balance to your entire look — with the right trousers, you could look like the best-dressed gent in the room.

Your guide to getting a good pair of dress pants starts here:

1. Getting the Right Fit

The cut of your dress pants is the first thing anyone would notice — traditional men may prefer a more generous cut, while millennials might prefer something slimmer. A tailor can make those adjustments according to your preferences whilst making sure they don’t reach the extremity of being too loose or too tight.



Crotch

Should fall smoothly without any pulling material.


Seat

If it is too tight, you’ll be able to feel it and see it pulling; if there’s too much material, it will look saggy and unflattering.



Rise

Choose your trouser rise based on your body proportions. High: elongates your legs Mid: if you are pretty proportionate Low: makes your upper body appear longer


Break

The harsher the break, the more mature you look. No Break: Modern 1/4 Break: Timeless 1/2 Break: Standard Full Break: Vintage

2. Choosing Your Trouser Fabric



100% Wool | Trousers: $220

Wool & Wool Blends

The classic choice — pure wool and wool blends are the most common trouser fabrics. When to wear: Work and formal events Benefits: Durable and wrinkle resistant


100% Cotton | Trousers: $280

Cotton

The summer-friendly choice — cotton trousers give you a refined yet casual look. Cotton stretch fabrics also make great golf pants. When to wear: Smart-casual environments Benefits: Breathable & versatile


100% Linen | Trousers: $310

Linen

The sartorial summer choice — one of the most popular fabric choice for Singapore’s heat. When to wear: Smart-casual events and outdoor weddings Benefits: Breathable, lightweight, has a great natural texture

3. Dandy Details to Add On



Trousers with hook & bar fastening in the middle (Image Source)

Waistband & Fastenings

The most common type of fastening you’ll spot with mass produced pants is a simple button or hook & bar closure at the centre front. Sure, there’s nothing wrong with that; it provides a clean, American, silhouette that’s pretty much standard in the world of menswear today. However, with tailored trousers, your choices would extend beyond these basic designs. Elevate your look with these visually striking, utilitarian waistbands designs the next time you tailor a pair of pants:



Extended-tab waistband (Image Source)


Gurkha trousers (Image Source)


Hollywood waistband (Image Source)


Belt loops (Image Source)

Belt Loops, Side Adjusters & Suspender Buttons

There’s more than one way to hold your trousers up. Belt loops are standard for work trousers, but you can also opt for side adjusters and suspender buttons for a touch of #sprezzatura.



Buckle side adjusters (Image Source)


Button side adjusters (Image Source)


Suspenders (Image Source)



After-dinner split (Image Source)

The After-Dinner Split

A hallmark of attention to detail — the “after-dinner split” is a slit at the center back of the waistband that accommodates the expansion of your stomach if you eat a large meal, and also allows for more movement at the waist, especially when you sit.


To Pleat or Not to Pleat

When to choose pleats: – You want more comfort and ease of movement. – If you have some weight around your middle; pleats can help disguise this. – If you have thicker thighs that are simply not accommodated by modern, slimmer cuts. When to choose flat front: – You want a clean silhouette. – If you’re going for something timeless and versatile.


Flat front (Image Source)



Forward pleats (Image Source)


Reverse pleats (Image Source)


Inverted pleats (Image Source)


Should You Cuff Your Pants?

When to cuff your pants: – You want that added weight so your pants will drape better. – It’s a pair of smart-casual trousers. – Adds a touch of sartorial detail When to not cuff your pants: – If you want to elongate your legs. – If you’re tailoring tuxedo pants.

Uncuffed pants (Image Source)


Cuffed pants (Image Source)

Tuxedo pants (Image Source)

If you’ve made it to the end of this article, congratulations! You now know more about dress pants than 80% of the population (we made that statistic up). If you’re interested to learn more, head on down to our stores to check out what we can do for you! We’ll be more than happy to show you around.

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#04-05/06/07 B Central
Singapore 339943

 

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1 Fullerton Square, #01-06
Singapore 049178

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